3 days in the Black Sea highlands

For two · June to September · by car from Trabzon

Green valleys, tea on the hills and wooden houses in the clouds. The plan lands in Trabzon and drives east, sleeping somewhere new each night; Rize–Artvin Airport is an hour from Ayder for the flight home.

Trabzon & Sumela · Trabzon

  1. 10:00
    Land in Trabzon, pick up the carThe highlands need one: the roads are good, but winding.
  2. 12:00
    1Sumela MonasteryBuilt into a cliff 1,200 metres up, an hour from the city; a steep 20-minute walk from the car park.Open in Maps
  3. 19:00
    Dinner in TrabzonAkçaabat köfte, and a plate of hamsi if it's the season (winter).

Uzungöl · Uzungöl

  1. 09:00
    Drive to UzungölAbout two hours: east along the coast, then up the valley from Of.
  2. 12:00
    2Walk around the lakeA flat 45-minute loop, with the mosque and the wooden houses mirrored in the water.Open in Maps
  3. 15:00
    2Up the road above the villageA short drive up gives the view over the lake and the whole valley.Open in Maps
  4. 19:00
    2Trout by the lakeFresh from the streams, cooked in the pan or on the grill.Open in Maps

The Fırtına Valley & Ayder · Ayder

  1. 09:00
    Drive to ÇamlıhemşinAbout two hours, past Rize; the tea gardens start on the hills by the coast.
  2. 11:30
    3Stone bridges to ZilkaleThe road follows the Fırtına stream past arched bridges to a castle on a rock above the valley.Open in Maps
  3. 15:00
    4Ayder plateauWooden houses on green slopes, and waterfalls. The hot springs are good after the drive.Open in Maps
  4. 19:00
    4Muhlama for dinnerCheese melted with cornflour and butter: the highlands' dish.Open in Maps
1 Sumela Monastery2 Uzungöl3 Zilkale4 Ayder

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